In the mean time I've got the tank in, but I can't find the manual for the fuel sender which gets shortened and adjusted, but I can't remember which way around it needs to be assembled.
Driveshafts are in, but I didnt have a suitably large socket, so I've ordered a 40mm one from ebay which should fit the nuts. These need to be tightened to 220Nm or in other words Really Really F. Tight. (RFT.)
I put in the tubing for the electrical cables, i ran a spur to each side which meets in the gap in front of the tank. I then bonded in the boot floor.
Plumbing for the fuel lines is completed at the rear, the tank has a breather and return at the top, the breather goes up a little to the one way valve, and then down again, exiting at floor level - I will install a grommit or something in the floor for this when I panel it.
The return goes up from the copper pipe and straight in. The feed goes along under the diff and round 180 degrees into the filter which is mounted in the diff housing where I can get it out the side. It then goes under the tank and into the fuel pump, and out the pump up and into the copper pipe to the front.
Things to do right now are:
- Torque up the rear hub nuts
- Get the rear tub on properly, it needs trimming and fitting.
- Remove the exhaust and fit the side-pods
- Check and adjust the engine position as required.
- Refit the exhaust, check that its not fouling anything, fit the bracket properly.
- Cover the exhaust and side-pod with heat insulation stuff
- Phone Dunning and Fairbanks and find out what has happened to my prop shafts, fit them.
- Fit the heater matrix
- Plumb the cooling system with the elbows,
- Sort out the clutch now I have the bolt
- Fit the replacement oil pipe
- Connect up the wiring, add a little fuel and see if I can start the beast, and have the first drive out the garage.
That should keep me going for a while
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