The header tank.
Prop Adaptor.
Transit heater switch.
Bleed Tee
Saturday, March 7, 2009
More Progress
I managed to find a 1/2" drill, and bored out the spacers for the shocks, they now fit perfectly. I mounted the shocks, but the rear shocks fouled the suspension bracket, so I had to grind the brackets down a bit using the die grinder.
Once ground down, they fit perfectly, and look rather good.
I then started on the braking system, I fitted the master cylinders, and tried to work out the reservoirs. I had two large reservoirs, and a mounting bracket I was hoping to use these, but they are too tall, and will foul the steering. I will order shorter ones from rally design the next time I put an order through.
I want to avoid using rubber hose where possible, so I'm using braided flexible hose for the low pressure line between the reservoir and the M/C. I got these from rally design, they are way too long though, so I cut them down to size.
The first step is to cut the pipe the right length, a smooth cut is required, and it must be straight else the olive wont fit. Goodrich/earls/etc fittings are all re-usable, I always replace the olive, as its basically the thing that is holding it all together, but in theory you can reuse those too. I find using some tape around the cutting face stops the braiding from fraying.
Once you have a straight edge, slip over the locking nut, its easier to do this before you take the tape off, then push on the olive, its a tight fit, so you need to push quite hard, but not too hard you damage the lining, or the olive.
Then the main connector slides into the tube until it meets the olive, then the nut is tightened up tight.
The finished lines fully fitted look rather good. The reservoirs are designed to go into a concave fitting, and seal through the fitting rather than the thread. This causes a problem when mounting the reservoirs, as they do not have sufficient thread to put a lock nut on. With the fitting secured, there is about 1mm of free shaft. In order to secure it, i used a plastic washer which is compressed down to the right size as the nut is tightened up and it seems to be doing a good job.
I then fitted the pedals, I can't fit the bias bar, because i need some lock nuts for the master cylinder pushrods, of course, these are UNC thread, and here in continental europe, they are about as easy to find as rocking horse poo.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Collecting the Fury
The chassis came back from powder coating on Tuesday, so I booked a van and went to collect the chassis on the Saturday. I drove down via dunkirk and dover over night, managed to miss my boat due to the van being too high, by the time I'd paid the surcharge the ship had sailed.
FYI, Norfolkline don't really discriminate between cars and vans as long as its for non-commercial use, when you book online via an agent, you get a billion options for length and height etc, basically, the trigger is 2.4 Meters high, if its over this, your van doesn't fit in the upper (car) decks, and you must go in the main truck decks, for this there is a surcharge. The maximum length would appear to be 6 Meters, but it is the height that is the one to watch.
From Utrecht, it is quicker and cheaper to drive down via the channel, than take the crossings from Rotterdam/Hoek Van Holland, although there is a lot of convenience from the overnight crossing if your in the east/north.
Unlike my previous trips through Dover, I didn't have any issues with customs and intimidation, and was out of the port by 9.15, I'd expected it to take up to 45 minutes. A quick stop at Ashford to visit the bank and I arrived at BGH Geartech. Chris went through the bits and bobs, and we discussed the build, he explained how the chassis bolted together, and of course I promptly forgot it all, but I'm sure it will all come back to me at the appropriate time.
I had a good nosey around the shop, and at the parts. Chris hadn't got the engine mounts made up yet, so they kept the engine as this is the first one they have with the 2006+ engine design. This is a bit of a setback, because, whilst I had known that the drive-shafts wouldn't be ready, I had instead decided to concentrate on getting the engine plumbed in. Instead I will have to do a lot of things piecemeal.
Chris also got some RS 2000 uprights, I wasn't sure if these were the right ones for the hubs as rally design sales guy had said that the alloy hubs used standard bearings. In the end, they were group four hubs, not standard alloy ones like the raceleda set.
Chris was kind enough to let me have a bunch of other bits delivered to their workshop which saved me a few quid on postage. I found an R1 package on ebay and made a very low offer, assuming it all works, then I've got a bargain. From the picture the bike had front-ended something, and whilst there is no damage to the engine on the sides (Typical where the bike has slide along the road.) annoyingly one of the oil pipes has been bent, so I will need to order a new one from Yamaha. I will also need a new sump gasket and I might as well get some oil too.
The kit has pretty much everything needed to get the engine to run, it has the filler cap, full wiring loom, switches, clock, engine/gearbox bolts and a bunch of other bits and pieces. I wont be using the clocks as my primary gauges, but I will leave the connector so that I can connect them up for fault diagnoses etc.
I also ordered another set of driveshaft seals for the freelander diff. I got these from Qualitypart on ebay.
The sump baffle, also from Ebay. Its CNC machined from 2mm aluminum and looks fairly solid.
Barnett gold springs, and uprated friction plates. Also from ebay.
Power Commander, from ebay.
The nitron shocks are a work of art. These are Nitron NTRs with 180 and 130lb springs.
The chassis, powder coated orange, (RAL 2007) the pedal box is raised to give me more space for my big feet. The pedals are also raised so that they will touch the balls of my feet.
The drivers seat has been lowered an inch to give me some more head room, and make me fit better in the car.
I also collected the Roll-over bar, this has been extended by 40mm as I was too tall for the standard one, this should also stop the supports form digging into my sides as they are moved a little too.
The panel-work is pre-cut, and in theory doesn't require any trimming if you have a standard fury. In my case I will need to cut them where the lowered floor is, and where the side impact protection/crutch straps interfere with the shape of the chassis.
The bonnet hinge has been plated, but I think I will paint this orange.
The brake line kit, this comes complete with flexible hoses, but they wont fit into my wilwood calipers so I need either new hoses, or an 1/8th NPTF->M10 Female adaptor.
The lower rear wishbones, camber adjuster, uprights, and hub spacers.
Lower front wishbones (top) and upper rear wishbones.
Pedals, pedal box, and steering components
Modified hand-brake, steering shaft extension, accelerator pedal, and bias adjuster.
Nut and bolt pack.
Amongst other things, Chris also recommended Gerald Dale Motor-Sport to get my DCOE's setup on the seven, so I'll book a session soon I think.
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Rear Differential
Fitted the differential, it was quite easy to get it into position, and the brackets lined up fairly well. The nut and bolt pack only had bolts for the sierra diff, fortunately I had some 25MM M10 bolts. The bolts don't have any lock nuts, so I've thread-locked them and marked them. I've seen on Tim's blog that his came loose before, so I've also marked them visually so that it should be obvious if they are working loose.
Panelling the floor
Dry fitted all the aluminum panels. The floor will have rivets every 4" along, and the other panels are riveted with 3.2mm rivets. The manual suggests that the panels should be installed first, however I agree with Tim that these will only get in the way. I have drilled, countersunk, and de-burred all the holes, test fitted the panels, and now put them safely out of the way. I will refit the floor as its going to be hard to do this with the car the right way up. The others can be fitted later.
4kam installation
I got myself a 4kam bullet camera to record better video in the car. I installed one camera in the very front of the car pointing through the grill. I tapped out the bracket in the polo radiator to m6, and mounted the camera through that. It sits back a little from the grill and gives a good view of the road in front.
The second camera is mounted in the rollover bar, and can pivot to face front or rearwards. Cables go through the transmission tunnel to provide power and connectivity. I use a solid state recorder to capture the video at 520 lines. The recorder can only take a single feed, so I have a switch mounted on the tunnel to switch inputs. There is a microphone under the dashboard capturing sound, and ultimately I will plug it into the intercom.
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